So last post started off with the best intentions and kinda rambled into a cathartic unloading. But that’s fine, that’s the way blog posts should be. I always find I connect more to personal experiences as opposed to just a Trip Advisor style guide, so I let it roll.
But now time for the helpful stuff!
After minibusing it from Oaxaca on some of the windiest roads known to man kind (and with a comical Mexican family) for 7 hours, I set up camp at Casa Losodeli, quite a lovely hostel with a pool – a god send for the stifling March heat! And lucky I booked – being Easter, it was completely booked out! Remember to check your public holidays peeps! The hostel was located closer to the business part of town, as opposed to the touristic hub, so getting anywhere took a little bit of schlepping. If id had my time again I probably would have stayed right in the heart of Playa Zicatela, or to the southern end at La Punta where the vibe is more backpacker.
As I previously mentioned, Puerto Escondido is all about the beach, and there’s a couple to choose from: there are the 2 bigger beaches of Playa Zicatela and Playa Principale, as well as the coves of Playa Carrizalillo and Playa Angelito. I pretty much spent my days testing out the different sands, goldilocks style, and figuring out my next meal.
Despite the hectic crowds, Playa Carrizalillo was a gorgeous little cove, where you can laze about on lounges or work on your Rip Curl Pro surfing skills. There’s also a cute little set of shops on the way into the beach for food and decent coffee (a rarity here!).
Food is good here and you’ll find a balance of tourist-centric eateries and traditional local haunts, which are more concentrated in the heart of Puerto Escondido town. I grabbed some tacos from a little grimy hole-in-the-wall place that cost about $2AUD.
But my primo recommendation would be Fish Taco and Beer, down on Zicatela beach for some EPIC fish tacos and delightful cocktails. Now don’t do what I did and let Google Maps take you into the back streets of dodgyville, this place is right on the main beach strip. I had the restaurant’s namesake – enormous fish tacos! – but there is a huge range of options, that all sounded delightful…and ideal for sharing with others so you can get a taste of everything.
If you want to cook for yourself there’s an enormous (please excuse all the superlatives) supermarket called Chedurai, that not only has exceptional air conditioning, but also every grocery ingredient you could imagine, including the kitchen sink!
When you’re not growing your own Mexican food baby, there’s also plenty to see an do on the coast. Surf lessons, kite surfing, whale watching and turtle tours will have you feeling part Kelly Slater, part David Attenborough. I also indulged in a blissful yoga class, which was also an interesting test of my useless Spanish language skills (so blissed out i was, that I walked out and forgot to pay!).
Conversely, myself and a couple of the travellers at my hostel attempted to go to some Easter night time celebrations (it always helps to have a resident DJ on hand), but weren’t exactly successful in our efforts due to the excessive tourism and ridiculous cover charges…but I did drink a whole half a beer! Now that’s progress for me!
And if you have enough days make sure you explore some of the surrounding coves and towns – Zipolite (my fave, more to come!) and Mazunte are crowd pleasers.
So while Puerto Escondido and I didn’t make a total love connection, there’s still a potential there that I would explore more with the right group of playmates, at the right time of year.
Do/See: Surfing and Kite Surfing
Turtle and Whale Sightseeing
Day trips to Mazunte and Zipolite
Stay: Casa Losodeli
La Punta – there are a wide range of hostels in this area that you just rock up to
Eat: Fish Taco and Beer
Casa Chicatana for Burgers & healthy grub
Casa Babylon for waffles and pancakes